I’ve changed the startup to be accurate on Shago’s Shadow Endokuken, Orchid’s Firecat, and added Throw Invulnerability to both Firecat and Shadow Flick Flak.
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UNDAVA!!! I’ll let you know anything else during my lab time. I know for ARIA I will.
I look forward to it. Though your methods are basic, I applaud your accuracy.
It’s the only thing I can really work with. I gotta make due with what I got.
That’s understandable. I’m using a 360 controller. >.<
I’m just using what the game gives me. Thankfully it records cpu replays and frame by frame scenes or else alot of the ARIA stuff fo frames I wouldn’t be able to find out by the naked eye.
I wish I had a video capture card but this works…for now.
I wish they had Replay functionality for Training Mode. I’d gladly have that so I could use my Elite Controller. The cable I used to play on PC broke. In order to record the way I was (the way I’m most comfortable), I have to use a wired 360 controller. The D-pad on this thing sucks so much.
Yeah, I hate the 360 dpad, ugh…horrible. Don’t like it. We should add eachother on XBL, I can go over some frame data stuff with you. And sinc eI’ll be talking it would be much easier to understand things.
My GT is my forum name.
Don’t you just need any old micro USB cable to connect an Xbox One controller to PC? If you have an Android phone, you can use your charge cable just fine, or ask a friend or two if they have a spare Android charge cable lying around (people who upgrade their phones probably do). And if you have to buy a new cable, it should only be a couple bucks on newegg or amazon (for example, this one).
My phone charger is the USB 3.0 version. My friends all have iPhones, and I have literally no money. I’m looking for a job and have an interview tomorrow, but I wont have money for a while.
Sounds like I’m making excuses, but I’m seriously screwed right now. This is the only thing I get to do to take my mind off of all the problems I have to deal with. The fact that my friend had a wired 360 controller was a crap-shoot.
The USB 3.0 version doesn’t work with the Xbox One controller? That seems really strange to me. You should be able to connect USB 2.0 devices (like the controller) with a USB 3.0 cable.
This is the charger cable for my Galaxy S5: Click
That’s the Micro-USB 3.0. Allows for faster charging.
The cable I did have was the one from the Play and Charge kit. Nine foot cable, and the Micro-USB end broke and won’t hold a stable connection.
Oh, I see, it has a totally different port, it’s like some hybrid micro USB device.
Dang. No chance any of your friends or family has a spare “regular” micro USB laying around huh? They are pretty common cables these days, especially if you have upgraded electronics within the last 4 or 5 years.
Unfortunately, no. I’ve asked several people, but I’m just going to tough it out until I can buy one. Until then, I’ll be using the 360 pad on PC and Elite on Xbone.
Sunday Night Update!
Season 1 is just about done! All that’s left for those is the Shadow Moves. I’ll be moving on to Season 2 once I finish the Shadow Moves for Season 1. Until you see an update about those, please consider them incomplete.
If you see anything wrong, please, don’t hesitate to reply and make me double check.
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Alright so…thunder’s shaodw COTE and shadow sammish. You have them listed as 5,1 and 6,1. Shouldn’t that be 5,0 and 60? Since you can’ do anything after these moves screen freeze?
Also galcius shadow shatter doesn’t seem to be a 12f startup (1,11.) If I remember right it was 1,13.
5,1 means they hit first frame after freeze, because startup includes the first active frame.
Wouldn’t that be a 4,1 then since that would imply it connects on the 5th frame?
No, there are 5 frames that happen before freeze, and the next frame after freeze is active. Which means it connects on the 6th.